A Study of the Properties of Knitted Fabrics Made with Viscose Vortex and Air-Jet Spun Yarns
【摘要】：One of the oldest man-made fibers is viscose rayon (viscose). Originally developed as a cheap alternative to silk, it is considered a biodegradable fiber since it is manufactured from wood pulp. Viscose fiber has a soft and comfortable feel, and produces fabrics with a unique drape, superior clothing comfort and appearance characteristics. As a cellulose fiber, it possesses absorbency levels that are higher than cotton. However, it has a high propensity to pilling thus giving garments an ugly appearance.
Vortex and air jet spinning technology form the fasciated yarn technology which provides yarn with unique structure that can be produced at a high production rate. The two methods also produce yarns with low hairiness levels, high abrasion resistance and low pilling. The unique properties of viscose fibers on one hand and vortex and air jet spinning technology on the other hand can be exploited to produce fabrics with superior clothing comfort.
In this research work, knitted fabrics were produced using viscose vortex and air jet yarns. Difficulties like yarn breakage and fluctuating temperatures hindered the production of structures like single jersey and pique. The structures studied were1×1Rib, Full cardigan and Half Cardigan.
The study involved analysis of the yarn hairiness and irregularity. Vortex yarns had a hairiness index of0.13and air jet yarns6.84; unevenness (U%) of8and9.8respectively. Fabrics" physical properties like pilling and abrasion resistance were also examined as well as the physiological comfort characteristics like air and water vapor permeability, wicking and quick drying capabilities. All the tests conducted were in line with the ASTM International standards.
The study also involved an investigation of the effect of stitch density on the physical and comfort properties of the fabrics from the vortex and air jet yarns. The results indicated that an increase in stitch density was associated with high abrasion resistance, wicking levels and water vapor permeability. However, tight structures had low air permeability and drying rates.
Comparison of the characteristics of vortex and air jet yarn fabrics indicated that air jet yarns produced knitted fabrics with better air and water vapor permeability. Conversely, vortex fabrics were superior in terms of pilling and abrasion resistance, wicking and drying capabilities. Therefore, it was adjudged that fabrics from vortex yarns had superior properties when compared to those from air jet yarns.
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